Travel: Colombo, Sri Lanka

I’ve wanted to share this post for sometime now, but it didn’t feel like the respectful thing to do so soon after the shocking terror attacks in Sri Lanka. I was so proud to share my very first published travel piece and equally excited for my friends in Sri Lanka to be able to share a little snippet of their beautiful country. The article I originally wrote for Cuisine Magazine hit the shelves mere days before the horror of Easter morning unfolded. My heart broke. I’ve experienced firsthand the loving kindness, generosity and openness of the Sri Lankan people and over and above the fact that no one deserves to experience this kind of pain, I know how hard so many people behind the scenes have worked to put Sri Lanka back on the map after many years of war and unrest, it all just feels so damn unfair.

Some may think I’m crazy to share this article given all that has happened and especially given the fact that there is still unrest in Colombo right now following the attacks. But I feel I owe it to all the beautiful people of Sri Lanka, to share this in the hopes that one day soon, the tourists will return. So many livelihoods depend of the tourist dollar to survive and I hope with all my heart that the people of Sri Lanka can feel safe and happy once again.

Below is the article as written for Cuisine Magazine, shared with permission from my editor…

-One cannot talk about Sri Lanka without acknowledging the civil war which ripped apart this island nation for over 25 years. I feel one also must acknowledge the 30,000+ people who lost their lives in the tsunami which battered coastal Sri Lanka back in 2004. If anything, I start with these somber reminders to give some indication of how far Sri Lanka has come. With Sri Lanka named the best country to visit in 2019 by Lonely Planet and Sri Lankan Cuisine named as the top food trend for 2019 by BBC Good Food, the world is flocking to its shores to find out for themselves what all the fuss is about.

From the beautiful palm-lined beaches, ancient temples and wildlife parks, to the world-renowned tea plantations and not one, but eight UNESCO World Heritage sites, there is so much to discover and so, so much great food to be devoured! Like many capital cities, Colombo is usually seen as a mere means to an end. With the international airport located 32km’s north of Colombo city, people fly in and most are in a hurry to leave, as the beaches or tea plantations call to them. But should you have a day or two to pause, there are some real treats to be had in this bustling, ever-changing city. The rate of development in the two years since I first visited was monumental, the juxtaposition between 200 year old temples with a backdrop of the 350m high Lotus Tower or the Altair Building (which comprises of one vertical 68-floor tower with another 63-floor tower leaning, yes leaning onto it!) is a site to see. I’ve rounded up a few of my favourite places to eat, and sites to see below to give you a small taster of what this city has to offer…

Nuga Gama– Set beneath a majestic 210 year old Banyan tree within the grounds of Cinnamon Grand Hotel, this restaurant is not to be missed. Sri Lankans love a good buffet and Nuga Gama offers a high-end version with over 30 local dishes served daily. There’s also an Appa (hopper) stand where you can watch the skilled chefs in action. Dinner is served daily 7-10.30pm, while lunch is also available over the weekends 12-2.30pm. 77 Galle Rd, Colombo 3

Raja Bojun– It’s worth getting in early as this longtime local favourite packs out daily. The array of (buffet) dishes presented more than makes up for the cheap and cheerful décor. Everything is made on-site using locally grown produce and no additives, and the on-site chefs whipping up Appa (hoppers) and roti are mesmerizing to watch. Don’t miss their Garlic Curry. Open daily for lunch 12-4pm and dinner 7-10pm. Liberty Arcade, 282, R.A. De Mel Mawatha, Colombo 3

Upalis by Nawaloka– During my visit I was lucky enough to bump into David Cruse, manager of both Upalis Colombo and their Australian outpost, Upalis Melbourne who was proud to tell me they are one of the very few restaurants in Colombo to serve A la carte. This came as welcome relief after a few days dining at buffets 3 times a day! I loved being able to read a little about each dish (something lacking at buffets) and I highly recommend the kaju sudata upala (raw cashews tempered with onions, garlic and spices cooked in a rich coconut gravy) and the Gotu Kola Sambolaya (Pennywort Salad). Open daily from 11.30am-10.30pm (11.30pm on weekends). No. 65, C.W.W. Kannangara Mawatha, Colombo 07

Galle Face Green- From 5pm onwards the promenade along Galle Face Green -the largest open space in Colombo- comes alive with street vendors, children flying kites and young lovers walking hand in hand. Located next to the well-known Galle Face Hotel and looking out over the vast Indian Ocean this is one of my favourite spots to grab some green mango, sold conveniently sliced with salt, chilli and pepper to dip or a vadai (fried savoury lentil-doughnut served with slaw and a tangy lime sauce) and just sit and take it all in. Galle Main Rd, Colombo 3

Carnival Ice Cream Parlour– Open since 1983 this place in a mecca for ice cream lovers and a long-time local favourite that seems to have by-passed most tourists radars. Serving homemade ice cream cones and sundaes with flavours you’ll be hard pushed to find here in New Zealand. Durian ice cream anyone? Open daily 10am-12am. 263 Galle Main Rd, Colombo 3

Gangaramaya Temple– Gangaramaya is one of Colombo’s oldest and most important Buddhist temples, started by the famous scholar monk Hikkaduwe Sri Sumangala Nayaka Thera in the late 19th Century. You could easily spend half a day walking around this vast temple, from the Viharaya (image house) with its brightly coloured floor-to-ceiling Buddha’s and intricately painted ceilings, to the Bo-tree under where it is claimed Buddha attained enlightenment, to the Borobudur Replica where hundreds of Buddha statues are stacked and reach high into the sky, it’s hard not to be overwhelmed in the best sense of the word. 61 Sri Jinarathana Rd, Colombo 2

Temple of Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil– One of Colombo’s oldest Hindu temples and a great spot to watch locals going about their daily prayers. This small temple won’t take long to look around, but the details in the carvings both inside and out are incredible. Sri Murugan St, Colombo 2

Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque– I have never before seen anything quite like this candy-cane coloured Mosque located amongst the hustle and bustle of Pettah Markets. Tourist are sometimes allowed inside, but even standing outside and looking up is an amazing experience. Second Cross St, Colombo 11

Pettah markets- If busy, bustling local markets are your thing then make sure you visit Pettah Markets. Here you’ll find streets lined with spices, tea, dried fish, fruits and vegetables as well as clothes and jewellery. To make the most of your time here (it covers a number of blocks and can be quite hard to navigate) I recommend you hire a local guide to show you around. Keyzer St, Colombo 11

A few other places which came highly recommend but I sadly didn’t have time to visit: Kaema Sutra– Recently relocated to Shangri-la Hotel, this Sri Lankan fine-dining restaurant is owned by high-profile chef Dhar Shan Munidasa (co-owner of Ministry of Crab) and international actress Jacqueline Fernandez. 4th Floor, Shangri-La Hotel, # 01, Galle Face, Colombo 2.

Ministry of Crab– Some see this place as a tourist trap, but the happy hordes of crab lovers queuing up for plate-sized crabs really says something. Old Dutch Hospital Complex, 04 Hospital St, Colombo 1.

Culture Colombo– Newly opened restaurant serving authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. No 25, Kensington Gardens, Colombo 4-

This article was originally written for and featured in Cuisine Magazine. I was lucky enough to travel and stay courtesy of Cinnamon Hotels & Resorts as part of TBCasia 2018|cinnamonhotels.com